RED 4/2/12 2009 Fess Parker Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County (14.5% abv., $20, Safeway): Deep, rich garnet opacity, with a medium nose offering notes of raspberry syrup, black tea, and oak. The palate mimics the nose, but the alcohol comes through with too much heat, and the oak dominates the finish. Conclusion: The heavy, almost hot finish overwhelms the fruit. A serviceable pinot but not sure I’ll buy this again. Fess Parker played famous woodsmen in his films; his wine seems to be stuck in the woods, too.