RED 4/3/12  2008 Chateau de Montmirail Vacqueyras Cuvee des Deux Freres (14% abv., $19, Beaune Imports): Dark, opaque wine, deep garnet to almost black, offering muted, youthful aromas of earth, sweet spice, and black fruit. Mouth-watering acid and firm tannins surround a savory mid-palate and flavors of plum and black raspberry. Conclusion: This thing drinks way above its pay grade. Bright enough for lighter meals, substantial enough for those heavier, meatier entrees. An attractive bottle. Buy more than one, and you can thank me later.