RED 4/11/12 2006 Keenan Merlot Napa Valley Spring Mountain 30th Anniversary (14.3% abv., $26, wineexpress.com): Dark, brilliant, youthful; full of aromas and flavors both fruity and savory. Wonderfully balanced with mouth-watering acids and tight, smoky tannins. Conclusion: Wish I had cellared this longer. This has a way to go. If you’ve dismissed merlot after too many flabby or boring bottles, give the folks at Keenan a look. They’ll remind you of what good merlot is all about.