WHITE 4/15/12  2009 Regis Bouvier Marsannay “Clos du Roy” Burgundy (13% abv., $22, Kermit Lynch): Pale gold in the glass, this great value offers mild aromas of lemon peel, vanilla, and oak. Despite its lightness on the palate, an intense combination and balance of fruit and acid gives this wine elegant power, rounded out nicely with just a touch of toasted oak. Conclusion: Chardonnay that tastes like the grape, not the barrel it aged in. Crisp, refreshing, with enough body for heartier dishes, but excellent for the back deck on a sunny day.