RED 3/8/12  2009 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage (12%., $28, Paul Marcus Wines): Deep, dark garnet, almost purple. Early whiffs of menthol, tight and rustic but opens to become sleek and elegant. Red fruit, pepper, some minerality and graphite on palate. Hints of bacon fat. Definitely decant. Conclusion: not a quaffer. Needy wine. Wants your attention. Not for those who lack vinous curiosity.